GI tag for Tangail Saree goes to West Bengal!!

Bangladesh set to discuss the issue of "Tangail Saree" GI tag allocation to West Bengal with authorities concerned to know how a product, geographically named after Tangail, went to a different country.

There is a popular rhyme in Bangladesh-ChomChom TomTom kumarir Mon, Tangail Saree tar Gararaber Dhon (ChomChom sweet, TomTom cart are dear to a girl but Tangail Saree is her thing of pride).

However, on 1 February, 2024, Indias Ministry of Culture wrote in a post on Facebook, "The Tangail saree, originating from West Bengal, is a traditional handwoven masterpiece." However, West Bengal has been awarded the geographical indication (GI) tag for Tangail sarees.

Now Bangladesh has to rue the day.

"We were unaware of the matter and a meeting would soon be held to address the issue," Deputy General Manager (DGM) of the Bangladesh Handloom Board, Ratan Chandra Saha told the media.

According to World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), a geographical indication (GI) is a sign used on products that have a specific geographical origin and possess qualities or a reputation that are due to that origin. In order to function as a GI, a sign must identify a product as originating in a given place.

For hundreds of years Tangail sarees have been a part of Bangladeshs cultural heritage. Geographically named after the Tangail District of Bangladesh. It is regarded as taant (handloom) sarees. However, my ancestors moved from one place to another in search of a suitable climate to produce these sarees. Eventually, they found the perfect weather in Tangail and thus, these taant sarees came to be known as Tangail sarees."

Expressing dissatisfaction, Munira Emdad, proprietor of Tangail Saree Kutir Ltd told the media that "India has registered the traditional Tangail saree as a geographical indication (GI) product of West Bengal on an international level, and hearing this news, I was deeply saddened and surprised at the same time. Weaving in Tangail has been going on for hundreds of years. Its surprising and bewildering how a product, geographically named after Tangail, gained recognition in a different country" she asked.

Chief Minister of West Bengal, Mamata Banerjee, meanwhile, congratulated the artisans on X (formerly Twitter), writing, "Three handloom saree items of West Bengal, namely Tangail of Nadia and Purba Bardhaman, and Korial and Garad of Murshidabad and Birbhum, have been registered and recognised as GI products."

A craftsmanship of its weavers is manufactured by the most experienced people with special care using the best quality fabrics that give both comfort and durability. Tangail sarees, known for their unique handwoven techniques, designs, and motifs, have became popular at home and abroad for its design and matching anchal. The saree is made with mercerized cotton yarn and has a beautiful design. The artisans of Tangail have improved their craft over generations, preserving the traditional methods and contributing to the cultural identity of Tangail sarees. Women love to wear this on different occasions and festivals like "Basanto Utsab" and "Pahela Baishak." And all other festivals match with Bangla Calender.

Munira Emdad said the geographical indication (GI) tag for Tangail saree underscores the importance of GI tags not only in protecting economic interests but also in preserving the cultural identities of communities.

Expressing disappointment, reputed designer, researcher, and President of the National Crafts Council of Bangladesh (NCCB), Chandra Shekhar Saha told the media that "There is no doubt that Tangail district is situated in Bangladesh. So, we have a strong claim over Tangail sarees. It is a matter of great regret that India has received the GI tag, but all is not lost yet and we can still get the GI tag."

"We need a proper publication on Tangail sarees just like we have for Jamdani sarees. Again, the GI tag is given to a country, not to a certain person or organisation. Therefore, it is the responsibility of our government to start the process of attaining the GI tag for Tangail sareess," he said.

How India can claim the GI tag for Tangail sarees? Raghunath Basak, who has been crafting Tangail saris for decades, question, "In West Bengal, these taant sarees are produced mainly in Nadia and Purba Bardhaman districts. So, they should regard them as sarees of Nadia or Purba Bardhaman, not as Tangail sarees."

The Basak community, integral to Bangladeshs Tangail saree weaving, migrated to India during the Partition.

 This move, according to Raghunath Basak, spread their textile craftsmanship traditions across borders.