Babar Ali has become the first Bangladeshi to reach the summit of Mount Makalu, the world's fifth-highest peak, marking another milestone in the country's mountaineering history.
He reached the 8,485m (27,838ft) summit at 5:45am Bangladesh time on Saturday, Chattogram-based climbing club Vertical Dreamers said.
With this climb, Babar has now successfully summited five of the world's 14 peaks above 8,000m-a feat no other Bangladeshi climber has achieved.
Forhan Zaman, president of Vertical Dreamers and expedition manager, said, "Through Mohan Lamsal, owner of Nepal's outfitter Makalu Adventure, we have confirmed Babar's successful summit of Makalu. Sherpa Ang Kami accompanied him at the top."
"He is expected to descend to Camp-2 [on Saturday] and return to base camp [on Sunday]," he added.
Located in Nepal's Mahalangur Himal range, Mount Makalu is known as the "Great Pyramid" for its distinct shape. It stands alone, exposed to powerful winds and frequent avalanches.
Continuous snowfall and wind erosion give its upper ridge a dark appearance, earning it the name derived from "Maha Kalo" or "Great Black One".
The expedition, titled "Makalu: The Fifth Frontier", began on Apr 7 when Babar left Bangladesh for Nepal.
After reaching Tumlingtar on Apr 9, he travelled by road to Seduwa, then trekked to the higher base camp on Apr 18.
He began acclimatisation rotations on Apr 21, reaching Camp-1, then Camp-2 the next day at around 7,000m before returning to base camp.
On Apr 27, he made a second rotation, spending a night at Camp-2 before descending again to wait for a weather window.
Sensing improved conditions, he launched his summit push on Apr 30, reaching Camp-2 at 6,600m and Camp-3 at 7,400m on May 1. �"bdnews24
