Paris Fashion Week dazzles with gold, bare looks amid luxury slowdown

Paris Fashion Week leaned into glamour, bold styling and elaborate presentations as luxury brands sought to attract shoppers amid a prolonged industry slowdown.

Saint Laurent opened one of the week's most dramatic shows with giant chandeliers casting golden light over a black outdoor runway, with the Eiffel Tower visible in the background. Catherine Deneuve, Kate Moss, Hailey Bieber and Rami Malek attended, while Jennifer Lopez watched Stella McCartney's show and Rihanna appeared at the presentation by conceptual label Matières Fécales.

The spring-summer 2027 collections largely focused on three themes: extravagant glamour, revealing silhouettes and bringing couture-level craftsmanship into everyday clothing.

At Saint Laurent, designer Anthony Vaccarello marked his 10th anniversary with a collection dominated by gold. Safari jackets and trench coats appeared in metallic fabrics, while cocktail dresses featured shimmering lace and cropped jackets came in brocade.

The show came as Saint Laurent's parent company Kering seeks stronger growth. The label has benefited from improving demand in the United States and Europe while sister brand Gucci continues to struggle.

Chloé designer Chemena Kamali embraced elaborate textures, combining lace, pearls, tassels and broderie anglaise. Stella McCartney presented relaxed tailoring, knitted designs and dolphin motifs on denim while highlighting ocean conservation.

Revealing styles were also prominent. Tom Ford featured sharp tailoring alongside bare chests, fishnet, skimpy swimwear and silk robes. Balmain showcased corsets, garters and bras beneath cropped jackets, while Rick Owens presented sculptural gowns and elaborate tulle designs.

Balenciaga focused on craftsmanship, using detailed stitching to reshape shirts, T-shirts and jeans. Loewe, celebrating its 180th anniversary, emphasized soft leather and wearable designs.

At Place de la République, Matières Fécales presented a collection titled “The 99 Percent,” featuring shredded denim and protest-inspired looks.

Despite the spectacle, the luxury industry faces financial pressure. Bain & Company estimates about 60 million consumers have stopped buying luxury goods since 2022 as prices have risen sharply.